Oct. 6. 2014
My address
for those that have asked: (letters or padded envelopes only as it will be hand
carried to Uganda from Paris).
Megan Ancker
Mission Uganda
MSF
8 Rue Saint-Sabin
75011 Paris
France
Kampala to Adjumani
After a week+ of traveling, stops in NY, Paris and Kampala, I have finally made it to Adjumai in Northern Uganda. The ride here was long, 8 hours, and the last 2 were on a very bumpy red dirt road. We left at 6 in the morning but still the traffic in Kampala was bad. Two-way streets with lots of traffic, including motorcycles weaving in and out, many with woman on back sitting sidesaddle. Not to mention all the people walking on the side of the rode and the people sweeping the street in the middle and on the sides. Saw a truck with dead chickens strung on the side, live cows on the bed and men in hammocks above them. Once we got out of Kampala it was better but we went through lots of little towns with lots of little children walking to school (all in uniforms) on the side of the road. We crossed over the Nile, which had pretty impressive rapids at that point. Saw some monkeys and baboons near there.
Finally arrived at the MSF
compound, which is in the middle of nowhere about ½ hour from the town of
Adjumani, and 2 hours from the South Sudan border. It used to be a school and
is quite spacious. Besides two dorms it has an
administrative building, a pharmacy building and a building where meals are served
and people can hang out. I have a room in the scorpion house (the other house
is called the snake house so I guess this is better). The houses are dorms with
about ten rooms each that were built as doubles. We have our own room so it is
quite spacious. I have a double bed with a mosquito net, a table and
chair and a nice fan! There are male and female bathrooms down
the hall with cold showers and flush toilets except the toilet part is missing
and it’s just a ceramic basin set in the floor. At least I will come home in shape for deep
knee bends. They do your laundry for you but have to iron everything due to a
parasite (the tumbu fly) that gets in drying clothes and causes nasty boils
when the larva burrow in your skin. There are ~20 people from all over the
world living in the dorms. I am the only one from the US. The
overall number should be going down though as they have just finished a big
immunization project. The weather is surprisingly pleasant with some rain every
day.
Northern Uganda is very
peaceful at this time and while we live in a guarded and fenced compound there
are only pretty basic security concerns—don’t walk alone, don’t go out after
dark. Due to the fighting going on in
South Sudan since last January about 70,000 South Sudanese have come to Uganda. Mostly it is women and children as the men
stay north to fight and tend cattle. The
men do come across the border freely to visit their families. All refugees are
bused to the Nyumanzi transit center where they are registered, given
vaccinations, food and assigned to a tent.
They stay there and within 2 months are relocated to one of the
permanent camps which is determined by which tribe they are from. Luckily for them Uganda is very welcoming to
refugees and has donated large tracks of land.
In the permanent camps they all have a plot big enough to grow some food. MSF is in charge of health in the transit
camp and at two of the permanent camps, Ayilo 1 and Ayilo 2. There are ~30,000 Dinka (one of the tribes) refugees in those 2
camps, most at Ayilo 1 where I am working.
MSF has set up an outpatient center and an inpatient center. The inpatient center, where I mostly work, is
just finishing construction. It has a wood frame and some internal brick and
cement ½ walls to divide up the different areas. It is pretty dark as there are not many
windows. My job consists of supervising
the 4 Ugandan clinical officers (3 years of training) that do most of the work taking
care of the inpatients. There are 4 male
beds, 6 female beds, 9 pediatric beds, 2 ER beds and 2 ICU beds and a separate
structure with 4 isolation beds. “Isolation”
is a relative term in that despite instructions the inside dividing walls do
not reach the ceiling. I also see problem patients at the outpatient center
that is run by another 4 clinical officers and sees 250-300 patients a
day. I am busy learning a lot of new
stuff! The woman I am taking over from
leaves Monday so I will be on my own after that. Well not exactly. There is a MSF Medical Team
Leader, who is a doctor from Somalia, running the whole show whom I can consult. She spends her time doing
administrative stuff including meeting with the local minister of health and
coordinating with UN efforts. There is tons of malaria here and I have already
admitted 3 kids with cerebral malaria, 2 of whom were suffering from severe
malnutrition as well. There are also a fair number of kids that get burned from
all the cooking fires. The clinical
officers, nurses and translators are all Uganda. They are incredibly friendly. I must have been introduced to 100 people in
the last few days and they always shake your hand, give a big smile and say
“you are welcome”.
The camp where I work is
about ½ hour drive from the MSF compound.
2 land cruisers leave the compound at 7:30 every morning to take staff
over to the camp for work. It is a
beautiful drive, quite bumpy, with lots of honking at people, goats, cows and
chickens to get out of the way. Due to all the rain the countryside is lush
with lots of bushes and trees.
October 9, 2014
Today is Ugandan Independence
Day so we just worked in the morning. On the way home we drove by the local
parade of school children from different schools all marching and singing. Late
this afternoon a group of 8 from the UN relief team joined us for a barbecue.
We roasted a goat, and when I saw we I mean those experienced in such things,
and it was excellent. They brought lots
of side dishes and it was a very fun evening complete with a beautiful sunset.
Have met so many interesting people in just a few days. We are hopeful they will invite us over soon
as their compound is reputed to be quite nice.
October 10, 2014
First day on my own running
the “hospital”. Fortunately it’s the day the world food bank hands out food, a gathering of thousands, so
outpatient visits were pretty light and we only had a couple of new
admissions. I made it and so did all the
patients! The Ugandan clinical officers
were wonderful in helping me with a million questions. Have two new HIV patients who are pretty sick
so trying to figure out how to help them. Can treat their infections but don’t have any
medicine for the HIV right now. There is an HIV counselor here who is supposed
to get a supply of the right medicine next week.
Would love to send pictures but the internet is pretty slow and I will be lucky if this gets out!
What a great arrival! Glad you were so generously welcomed. Looking Nyumanzi, Uganda up on the map following this post. Have heard much of the displacement due to Sudanese conflict. Actually purchaced a cassette tape recorded by a singer in the Sudan. One of his songs sang: "it is hard to be a woman, or even a man — try it in the Sudan" ... has echoed in my mind for years. Do you return to them in the future to work?
ReplyDeleteThanks alot for these posts. Can hear the wonder and the enchantment and the rest and the work . . . all cleansing and good for spirit —
So. See the WhiteNile. See Gulu. See Dzaipi. See Ajumani. See the Roman Catholic Church (there seem to be 2 in Ajumani). Do not see Nyumanzi nor transit station, nor MSF Ayilo Camp #1 / nor Ayilo Camp #2. Did the Ayilo's #1 & 2 locate near the White Nile and Laropi, South Sudan or more westerly toward East Moyo — How far were you from East Moyo? Really a remote location and yet 70,000 Sudanese refugees. I mean really. 70,000 people - Ayilo Camp #1 & 2 — 16000 per camp / 32,000 people and not on the map. Whoaaah, Megan. Bravo work!
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